Flying over Lava: Our No-Doors Helicopter Ride over the Big Island

Our vacation on Hawaii’s Big Island was a kaleidoscope of impressions. Where to begin? I think I’ll start with our helicopter ride.

We took off in Hilo, a town on the island’s rainy side. The helicopter seemed smaller than average, just big enough for four passengers and the pilot — not a bad seat in sight, and no doors.

Big Island Helicopter ride, doors off

I expected to be terrified. Instead, I smiled so widely my face began to spasm. We floated just under the clouds, in and out of rain. Macadamia nut farms lay before us, each farm framed by windbreaks of pines and eucalypti. I had no idea that macadamia nuts are from Australia. They were brought to Hawaii as ornamentals and found their niche on the Big Island (the Great Hawaiian Mac Nut Trail begins in Hilo. I’d love to trace it next time we come).

Toward macadamia farms on Helicopter, Hilo, Hawaii

Flying toward the macadamia farms, front view

Helicopter flight over Hilo's macadamia nut farms

Macadamia farms, side no-door view

Through the mist, the coast seemed endless, a lush mosaic of farms and rainforest.

Helicopter flight over the Hilo coast, Hawaii

Then, suddenly, devastation. We reached the lava flows of the Kilauea Volcano, grumbling continually since 1983. “Kilauea” means “spewing” or “much spreading.” This is, after all, one of the world’s most active volcanoes and the home of Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire.

Burning trees, Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

Helicopter flight over a Burning trees, Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

Dead trees, Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

Soon, all signs of life were gone, encased in the wasteland of glistening, fuming obsidian.

Flying over the lava fields of the Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

The textures of an active lava flow are mesmerizing. The landscape seems to breathe and smolder just under the surface.

Flying over lava field, Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

Occasionally, thin fiery springs pierce the rock, oozing slowly, lazily. Up high in the air, we could feel their heat — a sensation I will not soon forget.

Flying over lava field, Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

Lava flow of the Kilauea Volcano, Hawaii

Circling spring after molten spring, we reached another remarkable spectacle: the meeting place of the volcano and the ocean. Set against the blue-green of the water, the scale of the eruptions is breathtaking.

Helicopter ride over Kilauea flows coast, Hawaii

Here and there, dense plumes of steam arch over the waves, clouds of seawater shocked skyward by magma. This is new land being forged before our eyes.

Lava meets ocean, Kilauea Volcano, Big Island, Hawaii